Attic Insulation

On a summer afternoon, an Austin attic can top 130°F. That heat pushes down through your ceiling all day, and your AC has to remove every bit of it. Thin, settled or trampled insulation lets more of it through, and you feel it as hot upstairs rooms, ceilings that feel warm to the touch and an AC that barely shuts off.

More insulation cuts that heat gain, so the AC runs shorter cycles to hold the same temperature and has capacity left over for the hottest part of the day. It works in winter too, holding heat in on cold nights.

The attic is also where most Austin air handlers and ducts live. Insulation on the attic floor keeps heat out of the rooms below, but the ducts above it still sit in hot attic air, so duct sealing and duct insulation matter too. Ducts partly buried in loose-fill pick up less heat, but only when they are well sealed and insulated. If they are not, they can sweat in humid weather.

R-value measures how well insulation resists heat flow; higher is better. Current energy code for new homes in our climate zone calls for R-49 in the attic. Many older Austin homes have far less, especially after years of settling, foot traffic and past HVAC or electrical work.

For most Austin attics we recommend R-49 to R-60. The biggest gains come in attics that start with very little. Blown insulation should be installed to the depth on the manufacturer’s coverage chart, with depth markers in the attic so the level can be checked. See Choosing the Right Insulation Level for Your Climate.

Gold Eagle Services is an Owens Corning partner, and ProCat is the insulation we blow into Austin attics. It is Owens Corning’s professional loose-fill fiberglass, blown in by machine so it fills in around joists, wiring and odd-shaped spaces where batts leave gaps. Fiberglass is noncombustible, and blowing it in is a practical way to add R-value over what you already have. Learn more about Owens Corning ProCat loose-fill insulation and our Owens Corning partnership.

Usually, yes, if the existing insulation is dry and in good condition. Removal may be needed first when:

• Insulation is wet, moldy or stained from a roof or condensate leak
• It is contaminated by rodents or pests
• It is old vermiculite, which can contain asbestos and should not be disturbed until it has been tested

A good installation also keeps soffit vents open with baffles, keeps insulation back from flues and from recessed lights not rated for contact, and insulates and seals the attic hatch. Because we are also your HVAC contractor, we keep a clear path to the air handler instead of burying the walkway, and point out duct leaks or crushed runs you may want to fix while we are up there.

Sometimes. Utility rebates on attic insulation usually come through whole-home efficiency programs that bundle it with air sealing and duct sealing. Program rules and amounts change, so check current terms in our 2026 guide to HVAC rebates and tax credits. The federal Section 25C credit is no longer available for improvements placed in service after December 31, 2025.

Every attic prices differently. The main things that drive the cost are:

• Attic square footage
• Current insulation depth and the target R-value
• Air sealing scope
• Removal of old or damaged insulation
• Attic access and height
• Baffles, hatch insulation and other details

Most of those depend on what is in your attic today, so we quote from what we find up there. Call 512-489-4653 or schedule online to set that up.

Weighing blown-in fiberglass against spray foam, or wondering what R-value you have now? These guides cover it for Central Texas attics:

• Choosing the Right Insulation Level for Your Climate (R-Value)
• Owens Corning ProCat Professional Loosefill Insulation
• Signs Your Home Needs Attic Insulation Upgrades
• How Insulation Impacts Your HVAC System
• Spray Foam Insulation: Benefits, Drawbacks, and What to Consider

See every insulation and home efficiency guide in the Resource Center